Wednesday I got in a fight with a little shit surf ninja. Friday some old snake, battling skin cancer in his fisherman hat, dropped in super late on my best ride and took the wave to shore and promptly left.
Today though, I got mine. I checked the pier this morning for waves: 8 foot bombs of sucking, pumping wall. Only the foolhardy were out, a few humpty dumpties riding barrels to the bottom. I had no business out there.
On a hunch I went South, past Hermosa, to a spot that only works on NW swells. There were few folk in the water, including the little shit surf ninja with his posse of cronies and elders, all which gave me a nice grilling.
After a half hour it was pumping some 6-7 foot peaky lefts –I got a summer swell secret.
-SHERM
1 comment:
Good for you, keep up the mysto training
Post a Comment