A Nor Cal adage: In southern California, you wait for the waves to get big enough to surf; in northern California, you wait for the waves to get small enough to surf.
I was a bit iffy on my chances of surfing in Northern California; my wetsuit was only a 3/2, there are many rocky breaks with unknown consequences, and there are large mammals and fish in the water.
Another factor is you are surfing alone.
At first this sounds great, but paddling out to an unfamiliar spot, in a very unpopulated area can get eerie.
Fortunately, I found a nice beach break with a couple of longboarders in Pacific City, CA. The swell was kicking up a notch, so I pulled off Route 101 and suited up. I reinforced my 3/2 with a fleece hoodie, and covered my feet with 5mm booties (from my unsuccessful days of attempting to surf in NH - 6 years ago).
It was starting to get good; larger sets infused the cold water with energy. I caught a great left - I realized I was the only guy out there. After a few more waves, I rode the white water in.
SHERM
1 comment:
This is the rock! I really hope you don't have pink eye stink eye...
Post a Comment