
So the first decent swell comes along and Sherman and myself cruise up to Malibu to get our shred on. There were some waves but it was kind of closed out, but I was psyching on my new board and just pulling into closeout barrels. After about 15 minutes of getting thumped by closeouts my board decided to eject itself out the back of the wave and come flying down on my head fins first while I was still underwater.

I came up to the surface and was bleeding more than I've ever bled, and it was from my head to boot. The lifeguard got the blood flow stopped after about 10 minutes, and suggested I go to the hospital.

However this was opening day for the Patriots, so Sherm and I headed back to my place where we watched the Pats dominate the Bengals. Once that was over I figured I should go get my head checked out, and 8 stitches later I was back home and not allowed to surf for 10 days.

1 comment:
Good thing the pats won homey! Thanks for the glam shot
-SHERM
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